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Disconnected Offroad


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About Bump
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    The other OG
  • Birthday April 9
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    Other Side of the Bar
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  1. Going wheelin

    Fawk. Hope that's covered under warranty, Walt. Speedy recovery, my friend.
  2. Going wheelin

    I was going to say I'm in, then I remembered my Jeep is in the shop.
  3. Banned from Bob's Little Sport Shop.
  4. The Base Camp

    Happy Birthday, Jamie.
  5. Rock the Clock 4?

    Since I bought an annual pass for AOAA I expect to spend a lot of time there this year learning the trails. Provided there's no major problems with the Jeep, I should be pretty familiar by October.
  6. Skid plates

    I would not ever consider aluminum skids unless they were 5/16" thick with 3/16" UHMW PE skins. Artec's aluminum skids are only 1/4" and cost $1499, plus add another $400 worth of UHMW plus labor to cut it to shape and attach to the skids (DIY if you have the patience). I think that would be a kick-ass setup, but I fear 1/4" isn't thick enough. The problem is that aluminum is a very rigid but soft metal. Rigid, in that it has very little spring and is prone to crush. And soft, in that it will gall and gouge against rocks when dragged.
  7. Best Photos of 2017

    I haven't been able to make it up that climb since.
  8. Rock the Clock 4?

    I go to RTC so I can hang out and wheel with old friends. Wherever you want to hold it and in whatever format you like, I'll be there.
  9. 3 gal rotopax + spare tire mount

    Tempted, but I don't know what I'd do with my license plate.
  10. I've suggested that to both RC and to AOAA. Setup something on Eventbrite, pay your fee and whatever handling charge Eventbright requires, and just download the pass to your phone. They already do this. You pay your membership fee and pay for an unlimited season pass. I think the break-even is 10 trips though and you still have to wait in line to get your sticker and bracelet, so not much of an incentive to go this way unless you normally go a couple times a month (or at least religiously every month).
  11. Rock the Clock 4?

    I would do it again as well. I'd be okay with switching to AOAA but you need to consider: Campground fees - the Trailhead campground is $20-30 per site with no amenities. I like the potential of the property but, right now, there's a limited number of blue- and black-rated trails, and they are concentrated in two areas, one on the Eastern Reserve and one on the Western Reserve, with a lot of driving between the two. I'm going to run at least one of these areas next month when I lead our group for the Friends and Family Snow Run, but haven't decided which side. Poor maps - for reasons unknown, AOAA does not publish their hi resolution maps. I'm working with a contact to get KML or GPX files, but nothing yet. If you're going to do RTC4 at AOAA we should put together some runs before hand to figure out the trails.
  12. I've never seen a seal wear out that quickly unless the shaft is loose, bent or nicked, or some kind of contaminant got in the oil. I've also never experienced a bad seal from the manufacturer and, while I suppose it's possible, I also believe it would be detectable before installation. I would chalk this up to bad installation, either misalignment of the transmission output shaft when reinstalling the transfer case, or not lubricating the seal, resulting in a tear in the wear surface. I would put the dealership on notice that if the problem isn't fixed this next visit you'll be contacting FCA corporate for assistance. Also look into the NJ Lemon Law and see if it applies (http://www.njconsumeraffairs.gov/News/Brochures/Lemon-Law-Road-to-Relief-Brochure.pdf).
  13. The Base Camp

    Was that Hampton Car Wash at the beginning?
  14. F+R spring retention clips (helps keep your springs from unseating and rotating or falling-out when you flex) and F+R limiting straps (helps keep from overextending and damaging your shocks); these are not expensive parts. Using stock wheels you'll need wheel spacers as noted above. But you might also need a spacer for the spare tire if using the stock spare tire carrier. I agree with Ryan -- you probably don't need to flip the drag link for 2". Most manufacturers don't recommend flips until you go over 2.5". I would put in the lift and see how the geometry matches-up with your track bar before installing that mod. As for undoing the flip draglink mod, re-drill out the knuckle to 7/8" straight through and then pop in a TRE adapter to restore the normal positioning. In fact, to avoid having to deal with a 9/16" tapered ream (expensive and you'll never use it again) and getting the proper depth, you can just use the adapter with a 7/8" straight-through when you install the flip. Synergy sells the insert adapter and it's held-in by the TRE castle nut, so you can just slip it in, take it out, and slip it in the other way. https://www.synergymfg.com/Synergy-TRE-Adapter-p-21283.html. I also agree with Perry to actually flex-out and measure for bump stops rather than just installing what came with the kit. You've got a 2" lift kit and 2" bump stop extensions. You'll gain some clearance but no extra flex. The stock setup has room to go up. I'd stuff those tires up as far as possible (without overextending the shocks) and order or cut bumpstops for an exact fit. Make sure the TB relocation brackets are securely mounted and have no flex; I would not just bolt them on, I would weld them to the axle and stock bracket. IMHO, loose or thin TB relo brackets are the #2 cause of death wobble, only behind wallowed-out TB bolt holes. Which also leads to the next recommendation is to use the correct bolt size -- 9/16" -- on the TB axle mount, and not the smaller 14mm bolt Jeep normally installs as stock, to prevent that hole from getting wallowed-out. When installing, make sure you (or your shop) puts either thread-lock or anti-seize compound on every fastener. You will be thankful when doing maintenance work after a few years of northeast winter road salt. Don't order new drive shafts until you replace your fixed control arms with adjustable arms and get your axle placement, caster and pinion angle where you want them. The stock drive shaft should last a year or more, in which time you'll know whether or not you want adjustable control arms (and you might even be able to get your dealer to warranty them, like I did). No sense in putting undo wear on new drive shafts until you need to. While you're improving the capability of your Jeep, don't forget to enhance it's safety, too. Get a good fire extinguisher and either an all-metal clamping mount or quick-release mount and install it where you can quickly and easily get to, and also get a good first aid kit.
  15. The Base Camp

    What earthquake?