Jump to content
Disconnected Offroad

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

Feuerdog

Possible wheel bearing...?

24 posts in this topic

I have a 12' JK Sport Wrangler, w/LSD, and 3.73s. I run 33" bfg muds that have 50k, and are worn and noisy but not out of balance,....yet.
I recently have felt a very slight vibration while at highway speeds. Not even a vibration really, more like a dragging sensation.
The alignment is good, the wheels are tight, brakes are fine, tire wear is even.
While prepping for a road trip I noticed a slight 'clunk' in the drivers rear wheel. There is no sign of oil leak, no noise while turning, and it still feels tight, unless I really wiggle it hard.

TLDR-
I suspect a wheel bearing issue.
Thoughts? How much time do I have before this becomes a more expensive permanent damage situation? The Dana 44 has a 4 bolt bearing unit/retaining plate? in the rear, and I'll assume I should do the axle seal and bearing at minimum.
Is there anything else I should do while I'm there? 
Thanks for any feedback.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
3 hours ago, Feuerdog said:


I have a 12' JK Sport Wrangler, w/LSD, and 3.73s. I run 33" bfg muds that have 50k, and are worn and noisy but not out of balance,....yet.
I recently have felt a very slight vibration while at highway speeds. Not even a vibration really, more like a dragging sensation.
The alignment is good, the wheels are tight, brakes are fine, tire wear is even.
While prepping for a road trip I noticed a slight 'clunk' in the drivers rear wheel. There is no sign of oil leak, no noise while turning, and it still feels tight, unless I really wiggle it hard.

TLDR-
I suspect a wheel bearing issue.
Thoughts? How much time do I have before this becomes a more expensive permanent damage situation? The Dana 44 has a 4 bolt bearing unit/retaining plate? in the rear, and I'll assume I should do the axle seal and bearing at minimum.
Is there anything else I should do while I'm there? 
Thanks for any feedback.

Have you jacked it and pulled to and from on the tire?  How about side to side?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
3 hours ago, Feuerdog said:

I have a 12' JK Sport Wrangler, w/LSD, and 3.73s. I run 33" bfg muds that have 50k, and are worn and noisy but not out of balance,....yet.
I recently have felt a very slight vibration while at highway speeds. Not even a vibration really, more like a dragging sensation.
The alignment is good, the wheels are tight, brakes are fine, tire wear is even.
While prepping for a road trip I noticed a slight 'clunk' in the drivers rear wheel. There is no sign of oil leak, no noise while turning, and it still feels tight, unless I really wiggle it hard.

TLDR-
I suspect a wheel bearing issue.
Thoughts? How much time do I have before this becomes a more expensive permanent damage situation? The Dana 44 has a 4 bolt bearing unit/retaining plate? in the rear, and I'll assume I should do the axle seal and bearing at minimum.
Is there anything else I should do while I'm there? 
Thanks for any feedback.

Is there any chance that your axle shaft could be bent?  At minimum, lift the tire off the ground and let the wheel spin at idle just to make sure everything is spinning true.  It should also help to determine if the bearing is spinning as free as it should be.  I have a video of mine that I'll post to show what a bent shaft will look like.  If it is just the bearing, the biggest issue you will have is getting a new barring pressed onto the old axle shaft.  If you replace the shaft, you can buy it with the bearings already pressed on.  You'll pay a little more, in parts, but will be upgrading and not spending money on labor for a project you are still doing yourself.  And yes, do your seal while your in there.,

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
 
 
 

I need to get it in the air and get the wheel off tomorrow night.

Unrelated, my coolant overflow bottle was all but empty, but I fixed that this morning. My JK uses the orange HOAT coolant, so I snagged some G-05 zerex and added about a quart.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
I need to get it in the air and get the wheel off tomorrow night.

Unrelated, my coolant overflow bottle was all but empty, but I fixed that this morning. My JK uses the orange HOAT coolant, so I snagged some G-05 zerex and added about a quart.

Is the G-05 compatible with HOAT? I know Chrysler is extremely specific when it comes to fluids according to the owners manual.

Sent from my SM-N920V using Tapatalk

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
4 minutes ago, HEAVYMETAL said:

Is the G-05 compatible with HOAT? I know Chrysler is extremely specific when it comes to fluids according to the owners manual.

Sent from my SM-N920V using Tapatalk

ZEREX G-05 is the automaker approved original chemistry used in newer Ford & Daimler Chrysler automotive and diesel engines. Its Hybrid Organic Acid Technology (HOAT) chemistry combines the best of conventional and organic acid-based chemistry to provide the ultimate protection against rust and corrosion. ZEREX G-05 antifreeze/coolant uses the highest quality virgin ethylene glycol for freeze and boilover protection and a hybrid organic acid corrosion inhibitor package to protect your engines from liner pitting and corrosion.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
ZEREX G-05 is the automaker approved original chemistry used in newer Ford & Daimler Chrysler automotive and diesel engines. Its Hybrid Organic Acid Technology (HOAT) chemistry combines the best of conventional and organic acid-based chemistry to provide the ultimate protection against rust and corrosion. ZEREX G-05 antifreeze/coolant uses the highest quality virgin ethylene glycol for freeze and boilover protection and a hybrid organic acid corrosion inhibitor package to protect your engines from liner pitting and corrosion.

Thanks, Ryan. I was curious about my Cummins, it uses OAT rather than HOAT. I bit the bullet and bought a gallon from the dealer ($28).

Sent from my SM-N920V using Tapatalk

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
14 hours ago, Feuerdog said:

I have a 12' JK Sport Wrangler, w/LSD, and 3.73s. I run 33" bfg muds that have 50k, and are worn and noisy but not out of balance,....yet.
I recently have felt a very slight vibration while at highway speeds. Not even a vibration really, more like a dragging sensation.
The alignment is good, the wheels are tight, brakes are fine, tire wear is even.
While prepping for a road trip I noticed a slight 'clunk' in the drivers rear wheel. There is no sign of oil leak, no noise while turning, and it still feels tight, unless I really wiggle it hard.

TLDR-
I suspect a wheel bearing issue.
Thoughts? How much time do I have before this becomes a more expensive permanent damage situation? The Dana 44 has a 4 bolt bearing unit/retaining plate? in the rear, and I'll assume I should do the axle seal and bearing at minimum.
Is there anything else I should do while I'm there? 
Thanks for any feedback.

@Feuerdog Andy, I'm curious about this clunk.  I wouldn't completely discount control arm stuff.  Do you have tall enough jackstands to support from the frame to get the rear completely off the ground?  If not, I have a set of 12-tons you can borrow and as I recall you don't live all that far from me, but I vaguely recall you moving.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
26 minutes ago, Phoenix said:

ZEREX G-05 is the automaker approved original chemistry used in newer Ford & Daimler Chrysler automotive and diesel engines. Its Hybrid Organic Acid Technology (HOAT) chemistry combines the best of conventional and organic acid-based chemistry to provide the ultimate protection against rust and corrosion. ZEREX G-05 antifreeze/coolant uses the highest quality virgin ethylene glycol for freeze and boilover protection and a hybrid organic acid corrosion inhibitor package to protect your engines from liner pitting and corrosion.

Yes, that's what Zerex will tell you.  But Chrysler will tell you OEM only.  IF you want to move to Zerex, do a full flush.   

Sorry for the derail.  Back to Andy's bearing

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
Yes, that's what Zerex will tell you.  But Chrysler will tell you OEM only.  IF you want to move to Zerex, do a full flush.   

Sorry for the derail.  Back to Andy's bearing

Technically not a derail if the OP mentioned the ZEREX first......

Sent from my SM-N920V using Tapatalk

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 

Not doing a full flush, just topping off. The Zerex HOAT will be fine. OEMs are always promoting their own overpriced crap at inflated prices.

In 2013 Jeep went OAT(purple tint) which is NOT mixable with HOAT.

I don't own jack stands anymore, but I work at a truck shop, heavy equipment/tools/air/etc are readily available.

I just need this to survive another week while I go down to VA on vacation. I'm bringing my tools just in case.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 

Might be loose wheel lug nuts?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
 

Put it up in the air tonight.

The front end is solid. Although the passenger axle seal is damp. No biggie there.

The rears do make noise though. It's really minor, just a slight ticking if you yank on the wheels hard enough. As I sad before the wheel/lugs are tight.

There is no visible movement, no dragging, the wheels turn freely.....enough, and there are no grinding noises.

Is it possible for axle nuts to get loose?

Considering the Wharton mud I've been in

Im going to get it checked and fixed after vacation, about 700 miles is all it needs to survive. Maybe add a few basic upgrades to the todo list while I'm at it.

 

Wheel/axle bearings and seals

Front axle gussets

Diff covers

Brakes

......then maybe next year 35" ATs and flat fenders.

 

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
Put it up in the air tonight.

The front end is solid. Although the passenger axle seal is damp. No biggie there.

The rears do make noise though. It's really minor, just a slight ticking if you yank on the wheels hard enough. As I sad before the wheel/lugs are tight.

There is no visible movement, no dragging, the wheels turn freely.....enough, and there are no grinding noises.

Is it possible for axle nuts to get loose?

Considering the Wharton mud I've been in

Im going to get it checked and fixed after vacation, about 700 miles is all it needs to survive. Maybe add a few basic upgrades to the todo list while I'm at it.

 

Wheel/axle bearings and seals

Front axle gussets

Diff covers

Brakes

......then maybe next year 35" ATs and flat fenders.

 

 

Sounds better than buying a dub.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 

Yes mine came lugs came loose several times, Blue loctite, and 100ft. Lb.  torque pressure fixed it.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 

1250 miles later, I'm back from vacation. Nothing seems to have gotten worse.

Question-

Due to the bearings being pressed on to the axles it seems like a simpler repair/upgrade to just replace the rear axles as a unit.

Do we like the G2 brand chromoly axle upgrade?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
1 hour ago, Feuerdog said:

1250 miles later, I'm back from vacation. Nothing seems to have gotten worse.

Question-

Due to the bearings being pressed on to the axles it seems like a simpler repair/upgrade to just replace the rear axles as a unit.

Do we like the G2 brand chromoly axle upgrade?

I ran G2 rear chromemoly axles from almost day one and they had Rock Monsters and heavy Interco SSRs at the end (around 160 lbs per wheel/tire).  No problems and included more than a few Rausch trips and one round trip to Moab all with very little mind to fucks given.  You should price them out at 4WD Parts as they're a new forum sponsor and I believe there's a forum member discount.

Also, Ima give a shout out to Revolution Gear & Axle as they have a chromemoly kit as well.  Aggressively priced and I think Globex has them in stock.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 

Check and see if the axles are complete and assembled. A lot of companies don't sell them assembled.

Pissing off my wife since way back

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
 
8 minutes ago, Mike said:

Ten Factory come pre-pressed.  

Yeah mine came ready to slide in

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 

×