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Psheffern

Knock on driver side near wheel

58 posts in this topic

So I have been dealing with this bad knock going over bumps, not going over bumps, and even just turning to the left.   I installed a Rough Country 3.5" lift about a month ago, but this just started last week, and everything is tight and been retightened, and the ride is smooth. Just had all the ball joints replaced, as we assumed it was that, and replaced the passenger u joint as it had some play, but not the driver side. (It seemed fine)   Anyway, thought maybe sway bar causing it, as bushings are getting bad and the bar moves, but I disconnected and the knock stops over bumps, but not while turning.  So turning to the left I can make it knock and then turning back straight or to the right, it will knock again and then be fine driving straight.   Almost seems like I am dislocating a shoulder and then popping it back in. Lol Any thoughts bc I am going crazy trying to figure it out.    Plleeeaasssee 

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8 minutes ago, Psheffern said:

So I have been dealing with this bad knock going over bumps, not going over bumps, and even just turning to the left.   I installed a Rough Country 3.5" lift about a month ago, but this just started last week, and everything is tight and been retightened, and the ride is smooth. Just had all the ball joints replaced, as we assumed it was that, and replaced the passenger u joint as it had some play, but not the driver side. (It seemed fine)   Anyway, thought maybe sway bar causing it, as bushings are getting bad and the bar moves, but I disconnected and the knock stops over bumps, but not while turning.  So turning to the left I can make it knock and then turning back straight or to the right, it will knock again and then be fine driving straight.   Almost seems like I am dislocating a shoulder and then popping it back in. Lol Any thoughts bc I am going crazy trying to figure it out.    Plleeeaasssee 

At full turn or just as you begin to turn?  Don't you have a GoPro?  Maybe anchor it in the area and see what it can see?  

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Unit bearings, or swaybar brackets maybe.

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At full turn, and I thought the same thing about the gopro but I don't. I may be able to borrow one tho. 

 

 

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5 minutes ago, NWKNJ said:

Unit bearings, or swaybar brackets maybe.

Unit bearings as in wheel I assume?  They seem fine as I lifted the tire off the ground and wiggled the wheel and there's no whine, which I believe is the first sign of worn bearings.  But could be wrong 

Swaybar brackets?  Do you mean the two holding it on? THe bushings are bad and I will change them in the next day or two, but again I disconnected and the knock from bumps stopped, but turning the wheel still knocks. So I don't think the swaybar is a factor. 

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Are you sure your tire is not rubbing the lower control arm?  What backspacing do you  have?  If this is happening, you should start seeing some rub marks.  

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Any death wobble-esq shudder?  Did you check the trackbar mount to see if the hole is wallowed out? 

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36 minutes ago, Mike said:

Are you sure your tire is not rubbing the lower control arm?  What backspacing do you  have?  If this is happening, you should start seeing some rub marks.  

Not sure on my spacing to be honest but it's not that as I had a friend watch me as I drove around the parking lot.  This is a solid metal clunk 

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11 minutes ago, kobbs_77 said:

Any death wobble-esq shudder?  Did you check the trackbar mount to see if the hole is wallowed out? 

Only had death wobble once and that was before the ball joints were replaced. At least I assume that's what it was since I never experienced it before, but thought my Jeep was falling apart. Lol. Everything is really tight. Even had an off road mechanic look at it when he did my ball joints and he thought everything seemed fine but the sway bar bushings being worn and thought maybe that's what it was.  

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2 minutes ago, Psheffern said:

Only had death wobble once and that was before the ball joints were replaced. At least I assume that's what it was since I never experienced it before, but thought my Jeep was falling apart. Lol. Everything is really tight. Even had an off road mechanic look at it when he did my ball joints and he thought everything seemed fine but the sway bar bushings being worn and thought maybe that's what it was.  

DW is a funny thing.  Ball joints are a part of the formula but the TB is way up there.  As the frame side trackbar mount is on the driver's side, I wouldn't discount it.  Funny thing about the TB mount is that if you over torque it, it becomes counter productive and bad things happen, What size tires are you running?  Ever consider a TB/sector shaft brace?

 

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2 minutes ago, kobbs_77 said:

DW is a funny thing.  Ball joints are a part of the formula but the TB is way up there.  As the frame side trackbar mount is on the driver's side, I wouldn't discount it.  Funny thing about the TB mount is that if you over torque it, it becomes counter productive and bad things happen, What size tires are you running?  Ever consider a TB/sector shaft brace?

 

I am running 315/70's. Not sure what the brace is but I can google it. Lol. Just weird that before the lift no issue except a small knock on the passenger side, then the lift goes in and I needed to rotate the collar to adjust the wheel about 4-5 turns maybe, cant remember, but still that small knock. Then I get an alignment and they say all seems fine. But I notice wheel still a little off so I turn the collar one more turn and then the massive clunk on the driver side began.  Even turned it back just to see what would happen, but major clunk still there. So changed ball joints assuming that's what it was and now I'm asking all of you. Lol

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16 hours ago, Psheffern said:

I am running 315/70's. Not sure what the brace is but I can google it. Lol. Just weird that before the lift no issue except a small knock on the passenger side, then the lift goes in and I needed to rotate the collar to adjust the wheel about 4-5 turns maybe, cant remember, but still that small knock. Then I get an alignment and they say all seems fine. But I notice wheel still a little off so I turn the collar one more turn and then the massive clunk on the driver side began.  Even turned it back just to see what would happen, but major clunk still there. So changed ball joints assuming that's what it was and now I'm asking all of you. Lol

I put a link in my post, but here's the link to just the brace.  http://www.quadratec.com/products/16315_60XX_B_PG.htm

If you weld, you can also weld washers onto the stock TB brace which help eliminate the wallowing.  BUT, since you're already there, I like adding synergy's sector shaft brace which double shears your sector shaft and is something steering boxes tend to appreciate.

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I put a link in my post, but here's the link to just the brace.  http://www.quadratec.com/products/16315_60XX_B_PG.htm
If you weld, you can also weld washers onto the stock TB brace which help eliminate the wallowing.  BUT, since you're already there, I like adding synergy's sector shaft brace which double shears your sector shaft and is something steering boxes tend to appreciate.


I did the synergy sector shaft and trackbar brace kit at one shot when I redid the front axle as preventative maintenance before I had any problems. Only thing you have to check is that it'll cooperate with your current trackbar as well as your coils. Synergy only guarantees that their coils won't rub. My RK 3.5's rub ever so slightly on the bolt for the Sector shaft brace and i purposely ditched my shot RK trackbar and went with Synergy to ensure the fit rather than rebuilding my RK joints.
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I just grabbed my track bar and I can't budge it, so not sure of my next step. Maybe I need to get to someone with a lift. One guy on Jeep forum said raise front end and to turn my wheel all the way to the left and then spin the wheel, just to see if the clunk/pop noise would happen. I will try that for the hell of it. It's just so crazy that it will happen every time I turn to left and then again when I turn the wheel back. Definitely like I am popping something out of place and then popping it back in.  I'm not a mechanic but this seems like it would be something that someone has experience before and yet no one can give me def answer. Gotta love it. Hahaha I appreciate all the advice 

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44 minutes ago, Psheffern said:

I just grabbed my track bar and I can't budge it, so not sure of my next step. Maybe I need to get to someone with a lift. One guy on Jeep forum said raise front end and to turn my wheel all the way to the left and then spin the wheel, just to see if the clunk/pop noise would happen. I will try that for the hell of it. It's just so crazy that it will happen every time I turn to left and then again when I turn the wheel back. Definitely like I am popping something out of place and then popping it back in.  I'm not a mechanic but this seems like it would be something that someone has experience before and yet no one can give me def answer. Gotta love it. Hahaha I appreciate all the advice 

I doubt you'd get much movement from the track bar by hand when it's fully loaded.  Maybe @BigCesar could get some movement.... 

Your buddy is right, you need eyes on the joint when you're cycling the steering.

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20 minutes ago, kobbs_77 said:

I doubt you'd get much movement from the track bar by hand when it's fully loaded.  Maybe @BigCesar could get some movement.... 

Your buddy is right, you need eyes on the joint when you're cycling the steering.

Ok I didn't realize that. So I should remove the bolts and check the holes then I guess. Just assumed that if there was an egged out hole then it would move a little.  Would putting axle on jack stands help any to test its movement, or just unbolt it? 

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Where do you live? If you want to take a road trip to my house in flourtown pa. I'll be more than happy to check out your front end and help you make any repairs.

Pissing off my wife since way back

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Where do you live? If you want to take a road trip to my house in flourtown pa. I'll be more than happy to check out your front end and help you make any repairs.

Pissing off my wife since way back





There's a joke in there lol
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47 minutes ago, Trunk Monkey said:


There's a joke in there lol

 

 

I thought the entire thread was a knock knock joke? :lol:

Who checked that all the fasteners are tight, you, or a shop?  After some very bad experiences with a shop, I like to get under the Jeep and check the torque on all fasteners myself.  It's also a good idea to mark them with a permanent magic marker so you can see if they loosen, but I keep forgetting myself.

Does this clunk happen when the Jeep is jacked-up off the front wheels?  If so, maybe another family member, friend or neighbor can turn the steering wheel back-and-forth while you're underneath looking for the source of the noise.  Just make sure to support the Jeep with sturdy jack stands.  

My guesses are:

  1. Loose brake caliber or caliper bracket (not my first guess, but the first thing I'd check);
  2. Tie rod contacting the differential cover (most likely cause);
  3. Bad track bar bushing or loose track bar relocation bracket (axle/lower side);
  4. Bad axle u-joint;
  5. Wheel contacting the drag link or tie rod TRE

I had a similar kind of noise in the WJ when turning-left.  It was a chronically-loose exhaust pipe that would clank against the chassis.  One of the exhaust hangers had rusted away.  But I don't think that's possible with the JK stock exhaust configuration.  

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1 hour ago, rich6700 said:

Where do you live? If you want to take a road trip to my house in flourtown pa. I'll be more than happy to check out your front end and help you make any repairs.

Pissing off my wife since way back
 

I live in Wyomissing Pa so about an hr. Had the guys from Busted Knuckle offer the same at his garage so I appreciate it and if I can't figure it out I may take one of you up on that 👍

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10 minutes ago, Bump said:

I thought the entire thread was a knock knock joke? :lol:

Who checked that all the fasteners are tight, you, or a shop?  After some very bad experiences with a shop, I like to get under the Jeep and check the torque on all fasteners myself.  It's also a good idea to mark them with a permanent magic marker so you can see if they loosen, but I keep forgetting myself.

Does this clunk happen when the Jeep is jacked-up off the front wheels?  If so, maybe another family member, friend or neighbor can turn the steering wheel back-and-forth while you're underneath looking for the source of the noise.  Just make sure to support the Jeep with sturdy jack stands.  

My guesses are:

  1. Loose brake caliber or caliper bracket (not my first guess, but the first thing I'd check);
  2. Tie rod contacting the differential cover (most likely cause);
  3. Bad track bar bushing or loose track bar relocation bracket (axle/lower side);
  4. Bad axle u-joint;
  5. Wheel contacting the drag link or tie rod TRE

I had a similar kind of noise in the WJ when turning-left.  It was a chronically-loose exhaust pipe that would clank against the chassis.  One of the exhaust hangers had rusted away.  But I don't think that's possible with the JK stock exhaust configuration.  

So to start....about 50 miles after the lift install we retightned everything we touched, then when I got the ball joints done by an off road shop he went and checked all the connections and tightened anything he noticed loose. That just happened this weekend. 

Someone else also mentioned to jack up the front, but I haven't been able to do so yet but plan on it this weekend. But we did turn the wheel back and forth with the Jeep on the ground and didn't notice anything obvious. 

As for your guesses......

1)  didn't think to check the caliper but wouldn't the guys notice that when they replaced the ball joints?   

2). Again he didn't see that but he was also paying more attention the driver wheel area since that's where the noise and feel from the floor inside is coming from. 

3). I will disconnect the track bar and check the holes on the frame end, because people keep mentioning a possible egged out bolt hole, but I know the axle the side is tight bc we just added a new bracket when we installed the lift and ourselves and the shop guys checked it more than once. 

4). Now when I had the ball jojnts, all 4, done he changed the u joint on the passenger side bc it had some play, that I even could see, but the driver he said seemed fine and he saved me money by not replacing it. I now wish I told him too just to erase another possible option of an issue and while he had everything apart. Again it seems fine. 

5).  Again my buddy didn't notice anything but the Jeep was on the ground and he was just looking thru the wheel well, as we were at work, so we will check it again when lifted. 

And finally we chcked the exhaust and it is all tight.  And it's not a clang like an exhaust would make. This is a loud thud or clunk 

but thank you for all of the options to check. I will def so so this weekend and post what I find or don't find. Lol

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If you have adjustable control arms, joints can come loose or threads strip. Does it knock when you stop/start quickly?

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1 minute ago, Psheffern said:

So to start....about 50 miles after the lift install we retightned everything we touched, then when I got the ball joints done by an off road shop he went and checked all the connections and tightened anything he noticed loose. That just happened this weekend. 

Someone else also mentioned to jack up the front, but I haven't been able to do so yet but plan on it this weekend. But we did turn the wheel back and forth with the Jeep on the ground and didn't notice anything obvious. 

As for your guesses......

1)  didn't think to check the caliper but wouldn't the guys notice that when they replaced the ball joints?   

2). Again he didn't see that but he was also paying more attention the driver wheel area since that's where the noise and feel from the floor inside is coming from. 

3). I will disconnect the track bar and check the holes on the frame end, because people keep mentioning a possible egged out bolt hole, but I know the axle the side is tight bc we just added a new bracket when we installed the lift and ourselves and the shop guys checked it more than once. 

4). Now when I had the ball jojnts, all 4, done he changed the u joint on the passenger side bc it had some play, that I even could see, but the driver he said seemed fine and he saved me money by not replacing it. I now wish I told him too just to erase another possible option of an issue and while he had everything apart. Again it seems fine. 

5).  Again my buddy didn't notice anything but the Jeep was on the ground and he was just looking thru the wheel well, as we were at work, so we will check it again when lifted. 

And finally we chcked the exhaust and it is all tight.  And it's not a clang like an exhaust would make. This is a loud thud or clunk 

but thank you for all of the options to check. I will def so so this weekend and post what I find or don't find. Lol

1. Probably.  But the brakes have to come off to replace the ball joints.  Mistakes get made, sometimes bolts aren't tightened properly.  Though it would be a big coincidence if it happened twice in a row.

2. You feel it through the floor when it clunks?  Like something's contacting the floor?  That is new (or missed) information.

3. Check the bracket, too.  I didn't have a clunk but I had impossible-to-correct death wobble.  Ultimately, there was enough play in the bolt-on Synergy TB relo bracket to trigger DW.  Welding the bracket made it much better then replacing it with a beefier Artec TB bracket solved the problem entirely.  But unless the TB or bracket is so loose it's bouncing around, this probably isn't the problem.

4. If the pax u-joint was bad the driver's can't be far behind.

5. It's possible that jacking-up the Jeep will change the geometry of whatever's clunking and cause it to temporarily stop.  Though I hate to crawl under a vehicle with the engine running, this might be the only way to find the problem.  

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6 hours ago, WARDY said:

If you have adjustable control arms, joints can come loose or threads strip. Does it knock when you stop/start quickly?

I do not and no it doesn't. But thx

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6 hours ago, Bump said:

1. Probably.  But the brakes have to come off to replace the ball joints.  Mistakes get made, sometimes bolts aren't tightened properly.  Though it would be a big coincidence if it happened twice in a row.

2. You feel it through the floor when it clunks?  Like something's contacting the floor?  That is new (or missed) information.

3. Check the bracket, too.  I didn't have a clunk but I had impossible-to-correct death wobble.  Ultimately, there was enough play in the bolt-on Synergy TB relo bracket to trigger DW.  Welding the bracket made it much better then replacing it with a beefier Artec TB bracket solved the problem entirely.  But unless the TB or bracket is so loose it's bouncing around, this probably isn't the problem.

4. If the pax u-joint was bad the driver's can't be far behind.

5. It's possible that jacking-up the Jeep will change the geometry of whatever's clunking and cause it to temporarily stop.  Though I hate to crawl under a vehicle with the engine running, this might be the only way to find the problem.  

1) prob not since the clunk was before and after but still worth a look while I'm under there. 

2) no not contacting it but the vibration more or less. So like you can feel the clunk under your left foot when it happens but not actually hitting the floor 

3). Again TB seems to be super tight and has been tightened more than once, but I'm not against taking it apart and redoing it just to eliminate another possibility 

4). I know I'm pised I didn't change it. And if that's the prob I'll be more pissed. Haha

5). Good point but I guess still worth a try

i should have the sway bar bushings today and if the weather holds up I'm am going to install them later. I can only see this lessening the banging from bumps, like when I disconnected, but we will see what happens.  

Thx again for all this help 

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