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Artec JK Front Axle ARMOR KIT

18 posts in this topic

We are thinking about adding this truss to our rig, but don't have the tools or space to do it right now. Anyone done it yet? Any tips or suggestions?  Of course this Truss Kit and ALL Artec parts available at JustJeepGear.com

 

Found this pic from EVO showing how to properly apply load away from the welds, so when the welds cool and shrink, you don't end up smiling..

 

536924_10151949629338680_1205483596_n.jp

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didn't bump have to add pressure in order to bend his axle back when he installed his.     i know brian has done at least one, I'm sure hell chime in soon

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Tall Peter (a/k/a Jeep-Power) from NJJC has installed around a half dozen of these trusses.  Good news Christian, he is moving to North Carolina, so you guys can become friends.  Anyway, after he did the first one and saw the axle warped a little, he has always used chains and a bottle jack to pre-bend the axle away from the welding surface. 

 

As you heat-up the axle, the hot metal will expand, warping it away from where you're working.  Then, as the axle cools the metal contracts, but and pulls the axle back towards you.  This is probably the reason why the Artec instructions tell you to pre-heat the axle, but it seems nobody does that. :crazy:

 

In my case my axle tube was also bent, so we tried to pull the tubes down and back at the same time.  The jack really didn't want to cooperate with this, but we did manage to take out about half the bend, which seems to be good enough.  And then you watch the tube while you're working and add tension if needed.  When you are done you wait a few minutes then release the tension, and (hopefully) wind up straight.  I'm no expert in welding and I don't remember exactly how long Peter waited before taking off the jack, as I was busy working on other parts of the Jeep at the time.

 

Anyway, prep takes about 70% of the time and effort.  You have to clean the axle down to bare metal, and getting into the nooks and crannies requires a lot of hand sanding.  Some of the bits and pieces need to be fine-tuned with a hammer or a grinder to fit tight.  And have lots of clamps on hand.  When you are done you'll need to test fit your front springs and probably grind notches in the upper C-gussets, as they will contact.  And getting paint inside the truss after welding is a messy job, there's really no way to do it clean and without runs. 

 

But once it's all done, it's as bomb-proof as a Dana 44 can be.  I swear that if it wasn't for the truss, I would have broken an axle tube down at The Cove, instead of a control arm bushing.

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Lucky you know someone that has installed around a dozen of these now and lives around the corner. I take the axle clear out of the Jeep and weld it up over a number of hours so that it doesn't warp the tube. It's a long days worth of work.  

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We also have plenty of room to make it happen if you need it. Maybe thats a good time to add some steering too. LOL

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Lucky you know someone that has installed around a dozen of these now and lives around the corner. I take the axle clear out of the Jeep and weld it up over a number of hours so that it doesn't warp the tube. It's a long days worth of work.  

 

Same way I did it, did you pre-stress the tube with a chain and bottle jack? It took me a good 6-7 hours of welding to keep everything even and I was working all over the tube to keep the heat even throughout. 

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Same way I did it, did you pre-stress the tube with a chain and bottle jack? It took me a good 6-7 hours of welding to keep everything even and I was working all over the tube to keep the heat even throughout. 

 

That's the only way to do it. I've seen what another shop around here has done to two axles. We replaced them both with Teraflex housings. LOL

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That's the only way to do it. I've seen what another shop around here has done to two axles. We replaced them both with Teraflex housings. LOL

With or without the chain?

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I thought they had a video on it, but just a PDF Instructions..

Warning PDF

They do and if you follow the instructions you're looking at 18+ hours of cool down time at a controlled rate.

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With or without the chain?

I only used chain on one and that was because it was already slightly bent. It takes me about 6-8 hours to do all the welding bouncing around from side to side. I tack everything in place and then move all around and take frequent breaks. I usually start on a Saturday morning and paint the axle right before I go to bed. Then reinstall it the next day. Customers bitch about it taking so long because there are guys online that say they can do it in 4-6 hours and for $250. We charge $450 for the truss or $600 for the whole kit for installation. My usual response to the guys that say the other local shop said $250 is "I can tell you the Teraflex housing is right about $2,000 when they warp your factory axle." That usually gets them thinking. 

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Lucky you know someone that has installed around a dozen of these now and lives around the corner. I take the axle clear out of the Jeep and weld it up over a number of hours so that it doesn't warp the tube. It's a long days worth of work.  

 

You absolutely want to take the axle out.  I can't imagine trying to do that kit with the axle under the vehicle.  And yes, there is absolutely no way to do this right in just a few hours.  As you say (in your other post) you've got to bounce around, take breaks, etc., even with the chain on. 

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Yea it's funny how cheap some new customers can be when they are driving a 40K brand new Rubi. I understand looking for deals which as a customer I always did but when it comes to stuff like this there is no cutting corners. 

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Tereflex housing in nj just sold on ebay for $530.....my max bid was $520-

that sucks!!!! Fuckin snipers

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