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Trunk Monkey

Do I want solid U Joints (spicer) or greasable and why?

42 posts in this topic

Need a grease gun adapter for the double cardon zerks. Don't know what it's called it came in a kit.

Phoenix you will probably have to drop the skids for the drive shaft.

I hit everything but the double cardon at every oil change. Just a couple pumps. Then the cardon zerks maybe 3x a year

The double cardon is a pain in the ass and frequently forgotten during service.

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OK, so how much time is it to pull a shaft?

depends on what I'm watching, but, usually a couple minutes...

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I'd say start to finish one hour.

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depends on what I'm watching, but, usually a couple minutes...

 

Both of these answers were what I was expecting

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depends on what I'm watching, but, usually a couple minutes...

A few minuets to remove, grease and reinstall?

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I can't say that I'm looking forward to having aftermarket shafts when the need arises because of this. Taking more time for maintenance is not something I'm a fan of. Oh well, I guess it's a nexessity

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Pulling the shaft isn't always necessary. But if you have aftermarket skids you'll probably have to remove the transfer case skid to get to the double-cardan joints.  This can turn a one-hour job into an all day job, particularly if your skids have seen heavy use.  I had to cut most of the fasteners off of my transfer case skid to get it off, and it's still sitting in my driveway waiting for me to bring it to someone who has a press so I can straighten it out.  And getting to the nuts inside the frame rail and cross-member is a huge pain in the ass.  Consequently, while I grease everything else every 5-10k miles, the double-cardan joints only get hit twice a year.

 

If you are not going to grease the u-joints regularly you're probably better-off with a permanently-sealed, solid u-joint.

 

As far as strength goes, when I snapped my upper radius arm my axle wrapped 90-degrees causing full-bind on the front drive shaft at the transfer case, bring my rig to an immediate stop from around 7MPH.  You can see scaring on the yoke and ears of the drive shaft.  Greasable Spicer 1310 held up fine and is still going strong.  In fact I've been driving around in front wheel drive for over 2 weeks and no problems.  I'll probably replace the u-joint just in case, save the old one as a spare.  But it impressed me with its strength.

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The best part of my drive shaft is that it is after market but I never haft to drop it to grease it.  I dont have the joint near the t-case that needs to be greased (double cardine?)  Now I know this will lead to failure here eventually, but still saves me some work now.  

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What type of joint is it?

 

 

It is still a double Cardine, but the joint is not a grease-able one. 

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It is still a double Cardine, but the joint is not a grease-able one.

Are you greasing the ball? There are 5 fittings on the shaft. 1 for each universal, one on the slip, the other on the centering ball.

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Are you greasing the ball? There are 5 fittings on the shaft. 1 for each universal, one on the slip, the other on the centering ball.

 

Yes.

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