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kobbs_77

Big Boy Axles: What's your plan?

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So, it has been said elsewhere on this board, Jeep disease has a two year incubation period.  You either get cured and you sell/trade your Jeep or you the vehicular equivalent of Jeep Herpes...which means the infection never goes away (the Jerp anyone?)

 

Anyway, as we descend into the rabbit hole of mod insanity, we inevitably start talking axle mods.  With one exception, I don't think anyone is currently running on tons.  I will be soon, but wanted to hear what the plans were of some of the guys on here.

 

For my part, and I don't think anyone mentioned it here, but one thing I forgot to mention was that there was some buzz in Moab about Mopar's new Super60 front and rear axles for the JK,  I kind of forgot about it until recently, but when looking, it appears as though they're going to be released this July and you can get fully built front and rears with elockers and 1550 ujoints for between $10-$11k.   It's worth noting that the Teraflex guys I ran with on Metal Masher say that they can do their 60's for $11k all in, which includes lockers and chromemoly shafts.

 

This is what I found on the Mopar part:  http://www.jkowners.com/forum/showthread.php?t=177729

 

 

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I have the Artec Truss on the front 44.  Plan on staying on 35s.

 

Options are still open for the rear.  

 

As this is my DD, chances of swapping axles are slim to oops I broke one...

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I'm building Fab 9's. No need for all the weight of tons when you can get equal or more strength in the 9" housing. I will be running 35 spline front with a 40 spline full float rear. Both axles will have RCV 300M shafts. 

 

To me a semi-float rear is useless so whatever you do make sure you go full float. I'd look at some of the 9" offerings. I know Ruffstuff came out with JK housing but I think they sold so well he took them off the market while he gets caught up and figures out a way to keep up with demand.  Currie has jk9's also. 

 

post-47-0-94663700-1401462449_thumb.jpg

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I'm convinced those mopar 60s are just going to be vaporware.  The price is just too good to be true

 

my goal is to keep the jeep streetable, so I'd like to stay 37" and below.  that B2 I posted ended up being worthless on the street, so i never ended up enjoying it

 

how bad is it to find a front 60 these days?  I haven't thought about that in a bout 5 years or so since helping a friend go to one tons on his explorer.  Finding a balljoint 60 was damn near impossible at that time.

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I'm planning a ford Dana60 up front with a 14bolt rear, currently running a d30 w/artec armor all around and a rear d44. Mine is still a dd so until I get something else to drive I will stay at 37's. The jeep bug bit me when I was a kid and it took until I was 19 to get my first TJ, then my jk and now my LJ. I had a kk and a xj in there too but never anything more than a mild stance for street. It never goes away, over the past 8 years I've only been without a jeep for 6 months total.

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I'm doing an '85 ford front d60 and an early 80's 14 bolt for the time being. Both are artec trussed with all custom brackets. I have a pair of ruffstuff 9" housings that I will eventually build up and swap over. The 9" axles would be about double what I have into the 60/14.

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I'm doing an '85 ford front d60 and an early 80's 14 bolt for the time being. Both are artec trussed with all custom brackets. I have a pair of ruffstuff 9" housings that I will eventually build up and swap over. The 9" axles would be about double what I have into the 60/14.

What are you doing for tone rings or are you just saying screw it.

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I have the Artec Truss on the front 44. Plan on staying on 35s.

Options are still open for the rear.

As this is my DD, chances of swapping axles are slim to oops I broke one...

Piggyback question...

I have pretty much no lift. Will an Artec Truss fit? I've read that it might not. Any help?

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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Vks rings on the rear hubs. I was going to say screw it, but they make it so easy it would be dumb not to put them on.

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Vks rings on the rear hubs. I was going to say screw it, but they make it so easy it would be dumb not to put them on.

 

Vick makes good stuff. So you are going to tie the fronts into the rears?

 

Piggyback question...

I have pretty much no lift. Will an Artec Truss fit? I've read that it might not. Any help?

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

I can't see why it wouldn't. It is shorter than the upper control arm mounts. What are people saying it hits? The harmonic balancer or something? 

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What are you doing for tone rings or are you just saying screw it.

One issue I don't have to deal with

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Vick makes good stuff. So you are going to tie the fronts into the rears?

 

I'm going to see if that will work. I really only need 1 for the speedo to work and keep the cel out.

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This is a tough one.

Since I bought my jeep I've told myself I'm going to build or buy a set of one tons. When I blew my front end 6 months ago I was a few clicks away from borrowing money from my 401k to pop a PR60 under the front of my JK. After a few restless nights and conversations with Mike at Globex I had to ask myself how far am I willing to go with this jeep? Do I really "need" $14,000 worth of axle under it? What are my ultimate plans with this jeep? Do I plan on making this a full time trailer queen rock destroyer? Or do I want a weekend warrior that will conquer most blacks with ease and can still be daily driver? For me with this rig I'd be content with a PR44 front with RCV shafts and my factory 44 rear with Ten Factory both with air lockers. RCV warranties their front shafts for up to a 40" tire. I wheel carefully and know my rigs limits. If I see a trail or obstacle I'm not comfortable with I'll be the first one to say "pass". I see a lot of guys running 40s on PR44s and that gives me some confidence.

Someday I'll build a buggy or truggy and I don't give a shit about flopping or rolling with tons under it that I can just point and shoot.

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I think the point of tons is to not say pass tho.

Your missing the point. You need to ask yourself "do I want to roll/flop a $30,000 base price jeep with another $30,000 in aftermarket parts on?" Or do I want to build a $1000 YJ where body damage doesn't matter for the crazy trails?

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Not missing it at all. Which is why I don't have my jeep anymore

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I think the point of tons is to not say pass tho.

oh and this is my opinion

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Not missing it at all. Which is why I don't have my jeep anymore

So you understand when I say wheeling hardcore a vehicle that's the price of a new Denali. Lol

I'd like to find another sub $1k yota to beat the balls off of.

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I wheeled until I was bored with the trails I could do. Most of the red trails have maybe 1 or 2 line that you can do with a normal rig and not kill it. I was doing increasingly stupid stuff just to stay entertained so it was time to change the jeep.

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my inspiration..

10364002_650744935014381_826290085285947

 

So you're saying you want a 14 bolt with a 5 x 10 bolt pattern?

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Kobbs there is a small article in this months 4 wheeler magazine on mopars dana 60.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk . Rich

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mopar super 60 front and a PR 80 rear…next on my list in about 20 years i should have them. 

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So, what's more important?  PR80 gives up an inch of clearance to the PR60, but has a bigger ring gear and is virtually indestructible (in a JK application).  What's more important assuming this is for the front axle and cost is just about the same?

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I didn't know any one was making a front 80 yet. I'd say in the front a 60 would be fine.

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